Vinci. Leonardo’s Tuscany

Vinci as in Leonardo da Vinci-from Vinci, a small town in Tuscany, Italy.

Another winter excursion. Notice how these only occur on sunny days! Not to fool you that it’s always sunshine here in Tuscany, but because I hibernate on grey days. And anyway when the sun does shine here everywhere looks so beautiful,  one almost forgets that it’s ever not sunny.

First stop for us was the wooden sculpture of vitruvian man by Mario Ceroli, a bold impressive piece that  sets the scene for the fact that this small town is naturally devoted to being the birthplace of Leonardo.

sculpture by Mario Ceroli, Vinci

Then onto the museum. Museo Leonardiano, details below. Ticket office and first part of museum is in Palazzina Uzielli. Exhibits here were about machinery for textiles, construction and gold working. Shall I be honest here-not very engaging for any of us. Then onto the main part of the museum in the more impressive surroundings of the Castello. The castle itself dates to around the year 1000.  Again the focus is on Leonardo’s engineering, with models of many of his sketches. I have to confess to having the least possible interest in, or understanding of ‘how things work’ so the appeal for me personally was limited, but the boys were more interested, especially (rather predictably!)  in the weapons designs, though the tank model even caught my attention. But overall  being entirely superficial in technological matters I simply liked ‘the big stuff’ so happily watched the revolving crane in action and admired the flying machines. Although I didn’t ‘get’ a lot of the exhibits here it is a reminder  of how far ahead of his time Leonardo was in his ideas, and as the museum is fairly small it didn’t reach the point of becoming boring, even for me!

Vinci

Wandering around the small town what strikes is how little has probably changed there since Leonardo’s day. So many of the buildings like the castle and the churches would have been there then, and in particular the landscape.  Looking across the hills, olive groves and vineyards it is such timeless scenery. (If you don’t count the satellite dishes of course!)

View from Vinci

The highlight of the day for me was the walk through the olive groves to Leonardo’s birth house. Not the house itself, but the walk. 3km on the strada verde, a green road, a well worn track through non stop olive trees  to Anchiano. There’s just something so magical about these twisted, gnarled silver trees, just add sunshine and a blue sky and everything feels right with the world.

Olive groves Vinci to Anchiano

Olive groves, Vinci

As for the house itself, not much to say really. Only 3 rooms, bare except for some information boards. A wasted opportunity. If it had been furnished as it would have been ‘in Leonardo’s day’ it would have placed him more firmly in historical context. Or even some attention on his art. The town’s focus is fully on ‘Leonardo the engineer’ yet for many Leonardo is a painter-after all he is the artist who painted THE most famous painting in the world. Yet hardly a nod to this side of his life here in Vinci.

Leonardo's birthplace at Anchiano

Rod spotted this tree growing near the house! We think its La Befana

So – Is Vinci worth a visit? Obviously yes if you’re interested in engineering. For the rest of us- It’s a charming small town with beautiful classic Tuscan scenery. The museum gives a focal point and the Leonardo theme a purpose to a typical small town of the type that you might not otherwise go to. Unless you have a strong interest it’s probably not worth going too far out of your way, but if you will be within an hour or so (which many holidaying in northern Tuscany will be)  then yes, it’s a pleasant old fashioned family day out!

For ‘proper’ detailed info from those who know! http://brunelleschi.imss.fi.it/itineraries/itinerary/Vinci.html

Museo Leonardiano price and opening times

adults -6e, reductions – 4.50e, children(6-14) -3e  (2011prices )

open every day. November to February 9.30 to 18.00, March to October 9.30-19.00

Casa Natale di Leonardo (birth house) Free of charge, same hours.

Museum website http://www.museoleonardiano.it/msl/home.shtml

How to get to Vinci

By car. From Florence (Firenze) (45km) use Fi-Pi-Li (Firenze-Pisa-Livorno dual carriageway) exit at Empoli Ovest, then north (SP13) . From Lucca (50km) take A11 direction Firenze, exit at Montecatini Terme then south on SP436.

By public transportTrain to Empoli (direct trains from Florence/Firenze, Pisa and Siena) then COPIT bus line 49,  25 minutes, approx once an hour weekdays and Saturdays, last return bus 18.35, but check times here  http://www.piubus.it/ and for trains see http://www.trenitalia.it

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About From a Tuscan Villa

Tuscan B&B, bed and breakfast accommodation and self catering villa rental in Bagni di Lucca, northern Tuscany, Italy
This entry was posted in Days trips, Tuscany, walking in Tuscany, Winter and tagged , , , , , , , . Bookmark the permalink.

3 Responses to Vinci. Leonardo’s Tuscany

  1. bagnidilucca says:

    Vinci is a pretty little town – your description of it is perfect. It is definitely worth a visit.

  2. When we went to Vinci, it was raining, but we still felt that it was worth the drive from Siena. My husband loved the museum and it does let you understand how advanced Leonardo was for the times. Did you happen to see the baptismal font in the Santa Croce Parish church where the legend is that Leonardo was babtized?

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